Well, here's the silk
shirt and my last word on V1033.
The silk shirt, front view |
And back view |
The silk fabric came, again,
from Mood LA; the buttons, as I said in the last post, from Chelsea Flea market
in NY.
I’ve made this shirt
often enough to feel fairly confident about it now. This time round, I added a little width to
the sleeve and gathered rather than pleating it at the cuff, to go with the
ladylike buttons. I was thinking lady blouse not shirt.
In keeping with the
mood I opted for a tie collar. It’s a
really easy thing to do – just like adding a super-long neckband. Here’s how I
did it in case anyone wants to know:
For the blouse body, I
turned the front facings to the right side and stitched them at the
neckline. People often recommend using a
narrow seam for the neckline, but I find a normal seam allowance easier to
handle. I can always trim it if
needed. I clipped the neck edge so that
when I turned the facings back to the inside
the blouse neck was ready for
sewing on the tie as shown below:
I didn’t cut a collar
or band, just a strip the full width of my fabric (140cm) and about 8 cm wide.
I marked the centre
(i.e. the 70 cm point).
I measured the length
of the neckline (excluding the facings) on the blouse.
On the neck tie I marked
the spots where the tie would end. I cut
a bit of high quality iron-on interfacing the length of the neckline and 4 cm
wide, and then interfaced the tie at
the centre.
I folded the tie in
half lengthwise, right sides together and stitched from the ends to the marked
point, then turned the ties right way out.
Then I sewed the tie
collar on as though it were an ordinary neckband, attaching the interfaced part
of the tie to the neckline, right sides together, and matching the centre mark
on the tie with the centre back of the neckline. I turned in the remaining raw edge of the tie
and hand sewed it to the inside of the neckline. (Some people like to sew the tie to the
neckline before they stitch the ends of the tie.)
Because the fabric is
silk, I used French seams for the body and sleeve seams. I bound the armscye seam
in a Hong Kong style finish, using bias strips of the
silk. But I made the strips 2.5 cm wide
and trimmed the edge back less rigorously than usual so that there is just a
little more support for the seam in case of slippage. (The silk is tightly woven so I don’t think
that’s likely, but after the episode of the wool challis I’m playing it safe!)
The armscye seam with the binding tacked on |
I had the buttonholes
professionally done, and they turned out much better than any of the samples I
tried to make.
And I love the buttons.
Buttons close up |
So, the shirt saga
comes to an end. Next post- a couple of
dresses!